Guinea Pig:

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Guinea pigs are herbivorous rodents that are native to the Andes Mountains. A few common varieties consist of Abyssinian (short, rough hair in whorls), silkies (medium length, soft hair), and Peruvians (long, rag-mop hair). They come in many colors and combinations. They are tailless and like most rodents, have front teeth that continuously erupt. If a tooth is misaligned, it may cause dental problems and require veterinary care.
 
Guinea pigs have two sebaceous glands on the rump and also around the tail. These are used to mark territories. Both males and females have two nipples in the groin area. If you are going to breed your guinea pig, breed your female on her first heat cycle which is around 7-8 months of age. Waiting to breed the female after the first heat cycle could cause the guinea pig to have a difficult delivery, and may possibly require a cesarean delivery. Normal delivery generally lasts ½ an hour and the litter size is usually 1-6 young. 
The young are able to walk and eat on their own after the first day. You need to introduce the young to the foods they will eat at and early age because they become imprinted with these foods and are very stubborn about switching foods later in life. The young are weaned around 14-21 days of age. The female will come back into heat 2-15 hours after birth. Gestation lasts 59-72 days. The breeding span of the female is 18 months of age to 4 years.

The life span of a guinea pig is 8 years, but unfortunately due to poor care/husbandry the average captive life span is only 5 years.
 
Guinea pigs, like rabbits, are coprophagic (stool eaters). This is a normal behavior and a requirement for the maintenance of normal gut flora. Do not use this as an excuse not to clean the cage. If the stool is on the ground, they most likely will not eat it. Guinea pigs also have very sensitive respiratory tracts and ammonia build-up from urine and feces can be very harmful to them. Good ventilation is a requirement. Even some bedding materials can be harmful and cause respiratory problems – do not use dusty litters, saw dust or cedar beddings. Acceptable bedding includes shredded paper, processed ground corn cob, and commercial pellets.
 
Guinea pigs like temperatures between 65-85 degrees Fahrenheit. They are prone to heat stress/stroke, so do not leave them in front of a window in the summer.  Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering, weakness, reluctance to move, convulsions, and ultimately death. Veterinary assistance should be sought immediately. Keep guinea pigs in a quiet, comfortable and relaxed environment.

Pneumonia is one of the most common bacterial diseases of the pet guinea pig. Conditions of stress, inadequate diet, and improper husbandry will often predispose a pet to an opportunistic infection. Symptoms include difficulty breathing, discharge from eyes and nose, lethargy, and in-appetence. Sudden death may occur without any of these signs. 
 
Guinea pigs can be very messy animals so their bowls need to be out of their litter. Use heavy ceramic bowls to resist both tipping and chewing. They do best with an automatic type water dispenser that has the valves outside of the cage. Water bottles/dispensers need to be cleaned and flushed often. Always have fresh, clear water available.

The cage minimum is 2 x 2 feet per animal for optimal benefit. Wire cages are not advisable unless you have an animal that has been raised in a wire cage. Guinea pigs can be clumsy and may fracture their limbs in the wire cages. Guinea pigs are social animals and can be safely housed together.
 
Feed guinea pigs food that is made specifically for guinea pigs. Feeding a guinea pig a rabbit food can cause Vitamin D toxicity and will not provide essential nutrients needed. Make sure the food is fresh when you buy it and store it in a clean, dry place. You can also freeze the food to lengthen shelf life.
 
Guinea pigs require Vitamin C and folic acid to ensure good health. Guinea pigs cannot produce their own Vitamin C; therefore, require it from an outside source. Some foods say they have “added Vitamin C” but it often does not contain sufficient amounts. Vitamin C is heat and light sensitive, so store food properly. Give your guinea pigs small handfuls daily of kale, cabbage, parsley, beet greens, kiwi fruit, broccoli, or orange to assure proper Vitamin C requirements. A Vitamin C deficiency can lead to upper respiratory problems as well. In addition, timothy hay/grass hay and small amounts of fruit may be offered daily with some precaution – assuring these foods do not make up more than 10-15% of the daily consumption. Make sure to wash all fresh items thoroughly to avoid exposing your pet to pesticide residues or bacterial contamination. Scurvy can result from lack of Vitamin C. Dental Malocclusion, or overgrowth , may cause constant drooling. It also makes it difficult for the guinea pig to eat properly, often resulting in severe weight loss.
 
Lice and mites are the most common external parasites of guinea pigs. Lice are tiny, wingless, flattened insects that live with in the hair coats of infected animals. Both adults and eggs are found attached to hair shafts of affected pets. Mites are microscopic, spider-like organisms that infest the top layers of the skin in affected animals. Transmission occurs with direct contact. Guinea pig lice and mites are not to parasitize man. If your guinea pig has fleas, the ONLY safe product you can apply is Advantage (for cats under 9lbs). You can only buy this product from a veterinarian. Any other over the counter product will contain insecticides and pesticides and will be potentially fatal for guinea pig and other pocket pets.
 
Try not to allow dogs, cats or rabbits close to your guinea pig because these animals can carry Bordatella Bacteria and may lead to Bordatella pneumonia.
 
Guinea pigs can be great pets and companion animals as long as they are properly cared for. If your have any questions regarding your guinea pig please call us.


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